Curated by Broc Willems
South Australia has never needed much introduction when it comes to wine. Shiraz from the Barossa, Cabernet from Coonawarra, Riesling from the Clare and Eden Valleys — these are the varieties that built the state’s reputation, and rightly so. But beyond the canonical, something interesting has been happening.
Producers across the state’s diverse regions have been turning their attention to varieties that rarely appear on the average Australian dinner table. Petit Meslier, Assyrtiko, Roussanne, Mavrodaphne, Zweigelt, Nero d’Avola — grapes with deep roots in France, Greece, Austria and Italy, finding their footing in South Australian soils like they were always meant to be there.
This isn’t novelty for its own sake. It’s winemakers responding to what the land and climate are telling them. The results are some of the most compelling bottles coming out of South Australia right now — and they’re drinking beautifully.
Nero d’Avola
Alpha Box & Dice — Siren Nero d’Avola 2025
Region: McLaren Vale | Style: Full Red | Origin: Sicily, Italy
Where did it come from?
Probably the most recognisable grape from the island of Sicily. Nero came to Australia in the late ’90s via the Chalmers family nursery in Victoria. From there, cuttings were planted and grafted by some of the more curious growers in McLaren Vale. It has really found its roots in the Vale, going toe-to-toe with the best Shiraz or Grenache, and coming up tops!
Why do we love it?
Nero d’Avola is made for warm, dry, coastal environments. It’s endlessly versatile, with a pretty purple hue, opulent fruit and moreish acidity. A natural fit for Italian fare and Asian-influenced Australian cuisine alike. This isn’t Alpha Box & Dice’s first dance with obscure varieties. Sam Berketa has been dialling in Nero and other up-and-comers for close to a decade.
Who’s it for?
If you love a full, brooding Shiraz, Grenache or other punchy styles but want to keep things a little fresher, nip out and snag a Nero.
Mavrodaphne
Mazi — Rosé Mavrodaphne 2025
Region: McLaren Vale | Style: Rosé | Origin: Peloponnese, Greece
Where did it come from?
Mavrodaphne was obscure even in Greece until it was rediscovered for the famous port-style wines of Patras. It reached Australia via an ambitious Tassie vigneron and a friend of a friend of a ‘don’t worry about it’ friend in McLaren Vale. This is the sole planting of the variety on mainland Australia, as far as the government is concerned.
Why do we love it?
Mavrodaphne makes for such a gulpable rosé. Dry and textural, juicy pomegranate and sea salt. Is it Mykonos? Lifelong friends Alex Katsaros and Toby Porter focus exclusively on rosé, experimenting with varieties and blends to create distinctly different wines. Their Mavrodaphne completes the story started when they named their project ‘Mazi’ – Greek for ‘together’ – celebrating Alex’s heritage and their friendship.
Who’s it for?
If you already think pink as soon as the sun shines, this will affirm your beliefs. For those a bit more skeptical, let the McLaren rosé masters prove otherwise.
Petit Meslier
Levrier — Sparkling Brut Petit Meslier NV
Region: Adelaide Hills | Style: Sparkling | Origin: Champagne, France
Where did it come from?
One of the ‘forgotten four’ ancestral grapes of Champagne, Petit Meslier was actually banned from being planted in the 1930s and was almost extinct until its revival in 2000. Jim Irvine was instrumental in establishing the rare variety in the Adelaide Hills in the 1980s, along with Chandon in Victoria.
Why do we love it?
Petit Meslier makes for a lightly floral, cheek-puckering fizz that begs for a party. Jo Irvine is the torchbearer of her father’s love for this little grape. At her Barossa winery, she produces the world’s only (she thinks) sparkling rosé from the variety. Levrier means greyhound in French, so it shouldn’t be a surprise that her Tanunda cellar door is more than dog-friendly.
Who’s it for?
If you love Champagne but prefer the local discount, this Adelaide Hills sparkling should be top of the pops.
Roussanne
Yelland & Papps — Single Vineyard Roussanne 2024
Region: Barossa Valley | Style: Full White | Origin: Rhône Valley, France
Where did it come from?
Roussanne is often the star of the Rhône Valley’s white varieties, leading the blends of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Hermitage Blanc. In Australia it’s commonly found with its blending friends, Marsanne and Viognier. It arrived on the eastern Victorian goldfields in the 1800s before landing in the Barossa, where it now sits alongside Shiraz.
Why do we love it?
Known as the “princess” variety – gold in the glass, but outside…a pain in the ass. Layered with rich tropical fruit and chamomile, it’s honeyed, buttery yet balanced – right at home with a savoury roast chicken dinner. Susan (Yelland) and Michael Papps are on a mission to produce the country’s best Roussanne, and if they haven’t succeeded yet, they’re pretty bloody close.
Who’s it for?
If you know your ABCs (Anything But Chardonnay), Roussanne is a logical next step. It sings alongside cheesy, creamy pastas – ripe, generous, and a clear fit for that friend who just loves a Chardy.
Zweigelt
Hahndorf Hill — Zsa Zsa Zweigelt 2022
Region: Adelaide Hills | Style: Light Red | Origin: Burgenland, Austria
Where did it come from?
Zweigelt was created by Dr. Zweigelt (who else?) as a solution to difficult times in post WWI Austria. A deliberate hybrid of the more noble, but equally unknown Blaufränkisch and Saint Laurent varieties. Zweigelt gets the best of both; easy to grow, easy to maintain and VERY productive. A farmer’s dream!
Why do we love it?
Zweigelt has punchy blue and red fruits and a spicy, exotic perfume that can be quite unforgettable. We love what Larry Jacobs at Hahndorf Hill in the Adelaide Hills brings to this little grape, dialling up its herbal qualities with notes of eucalypt and cola spice. It somehow feels both distinctly Australian and classically Austrian. Hahndorf and a bit of Germanic flair… Das ist sehr gut!
Who’s it for?
This is a wine for most people and all occasions. Chill it down for a springtime BBQ or sip it around the winter campfire. Can’t decide between Pinot or Cabernet? Go Zweigelt!
Assyrtiko
Jim Barry — Assyrtiko 2025
Region: Clare Valley | Style: Light White | Origin: Santorini, Greece
Where did it come from?
Assyrtiko has been grown on the Greek islands for thousands of years, the vines often trained into kouloura (basket-shaped forms) to withstand the wind, sun and dry conditions. Sound familiar, Clare Valley? Peter and Sue Barry fell in love with Assyrtiko in Santorini and saw a perfect match for their Clare home.
Why do we love it?
The Clare Valley is known for hot summers, crisp whites and genuine hospitality, so it makes sense that a Greek variety would feel right at home here. Spring jasmine, lime zest and pithy grapefruit make for one of the most refreshing wines we’ve ever come across. Until very recently, Jim Barry was the only producer of Assyrtiko in Australia. We always want what we can’t have.
Who’s it for?
Riesling freaks, oyster lovers or margarita mamas. If you search for sour and your mouth waters at the thought of a granny smith apple, get on the Assyrtiko train.
Sometimes Always is a South Australian online wine store with a serious knack for picking the good stuff. They bring together a sharp, handpicked mix of premium drops; think boutique labels, cult small-batch producers, and hard-to-find gems from Australia and beyond. With a fresh, no-fuss take on wine retail, Sometimes Always is all about discovery, delivering standout bottles straight to your door without the usual wine snobbery. sometimesalways.com.au
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